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Post by robin on Dec 28, 2016 11:58:02 GMT
The best way to see what I'm up to is usually instagram: www.instagram.com/dalmanknives/Most of the time I don't shoot very good pictures, and only with my cellphone. This is partly intentional, as I like to show them how they appear to me in the moment. Also I like to show them in videos, that way you can usually see most details. I will try to upload some chosen pics some day soon.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Dec 29, 2016 8:59:33 GMT
Hi Robin We all use...picr.de...to post our pics here....easy to use....specially direct from you cellphone picr.deBut for sure you can...directly post Videos...from your You Tube channel if you want.... all kind of oics and videos...are verywelcome here regards Micha
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Gallery
Jan 2, 2017 17:34:11 GMT
via mobile
Post by robin on Jan 2, 2017 17:34:11 GMT
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Post by Gabriel on Jan 2, 2017 22:07:51 GMT
Thanks Robin for showing! Already saw that Cleaver on KKF. Cleaver are not really for me... but it's looks really great and I bet it cuts just like that Regards, Gabriel
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Post by robin on Feb 3, 2017 8:12:14 GMT
Magnus helped me shoot a little process video last sunday. Excluding my usual music youtu.be/qLGe0mrLH4Y
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Post by BastlWastl on Feb 3, 2017 8:31:08 GMT
Your usual music is better! Thank you for this vid, can you explain the hardening oil? 2 different temperatures? Greets Sebastian.
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Gallery
Feb 3, 2017 8:51:29 GMT
via mobile
Post by robin on Feb 3, 2017 8:51:29 GMT
Hehe 😛
The first dip is in water, the second oil. It's very risky and "teaching" myself this have cost many broken blades. Temps and timings are important and needs tweaking for what works for you. Also the pre-hardening treatments are important (annealing and normalizing).
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Post by BastlWastl on Feb 3, 2017 8:55:53 GMT
Hehe 😛 The first dip is in water, the second oil. It's very risky and "teaching" myself this have cost many broken blades. Temps and timings are important and needs tweaking for what works for you. Also the pre-hardening treatments are important (annealing and normalizing). Oh very interessting! thank you. I now a similar technique but the whole other way around ... Just a short dip in Oil and then into the water, but it is still very risky ,. Greets Sebastian.
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Post by satanos on Feb 3, 2017 9:58:22 GMT
Allow me also two question: Do you forge the steel? If not, why do you anneal and normalize? There are several effects that result in finer grains by taking steel on temperature and leave them some seconds in air, putting them back into oven, but for regular, there is no need to anneal and/or normalize standard low alloy carbonsteels which come from a reliable source as Böhler, or Uddeholm How hard are the results for this exemplary waterquench blade at it's bevel and spine area, just to get a better idea of your process
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Post by robin on Feb 3, 2017 10:57:01 GMT
I feel I benefit in some ways from the anneal and grain refining (both in terms for my process and performance on finished knife). The finished knife measure 63 hrc by the edge pretty consistently, ie over many knives, so I know my process works well. But of course what matters is real life performance, which I feel is good.
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Post by satanos on Feb 3, 2017 11:52:39 GMT
Probably the wording isn't best. Annealing can be taken in german translation as "grain refining" (short cooling of the heated knife in air a bit), it can mean also stress relief of heavy stressed parts by deformation or just due to inner tensions or modifications of the grain due to this (e.g. = normalizing too), or it can mean to temper steels to maximum strength (not hardness). thanks
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Post by BastlWastl on Feb 3, 2017 11:55:19 GMT
Even with stock removal knifes it can make sence to normalize the steel.(depends on how hot the steel was while cutting and grinding it, and off coarse the condition of the purchased steel.....) If i do stock removal (sometimes) i sometimes do triple hardening (and this is also some kind of normalization...., depends on temperature for shure). If i forge a blade (only monosteel) i tend to triple normalization and do not grind before hardening (this is much fun with steels like 1.2562 btw. To avoid a bent blade.... But i am only a hobby maker... Greets Sebastian.
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Post by tastebomb on Feb 3, 2017 18:35:14 GMT
fantastic video(music too )
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Post by krassi on Feb 3, 2017 20:01:31 GMT
Pretty cool Video! thanks for sharing! Also could use Zetieums new Gyuto again today.. and he didnt sharpen it since he got it! scary!!
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Gallery
Feb 4, 2017 6:57:11 GMT
via mobile
Post by robin on Feb 4, 2017 6:57:11 GMT
Thanks. Haha yea zetieums knife is so thin on the edge it doesn't need to be sharp to be "sharp"
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